The Agony Line

The name of this little taverna in the Chora is called Agony Gramme, translated in English as the Agony Line. I thought that it was a strange name to call a restaurant, so we asked one of the locals what it meant. This is how it was explained to us.



The agony line is a nickname given to the route that ferries must take to get to remote islands in Greece. These islands must be far away from Athens and have a population of less than 1500 people. Ferry operators have little financial incentive to sail to these islands to drop a handful of people off, so the Greek government subsides these routes, sometimes paying 50-60 % of the cost. Otherwise, the folks living on these islands would have no transportation off the island. In Astypalaia, the ferry only comes only a few times a week so you had better not miss the boat. Astypalaia is at the dead end of the agony line. It is a grueling 12 hour ferry ride from Athens to the butterfly shaped island. The boat sets sail from Athens at three in the afternoon and arrives at the island at 3 am.



Truly an agony for everyone, the ferry operators, the passengers and anyone who has to meet the ferry to pick someone up. Good news for residents is that taxes are 4 to 5% less for people living along the agony line. You'll pay more to live in Athens or Santorini.



FYI, the Agony Line taverna sells a great two euro gyro. Try saying that three times fast.



More soon.